BUYING A MOUNTAIN DULCIMER
1. Not All Dulcimers Are Created Equally
Each good American-made instrument is handcrafted by an experienced luthier. Dulcimers are unique, with no two being exactly alike. The skill, experience, and craftsmanship of the builder have much more to do with the instrument’s sound than the particular kind of wood from which it is made.
Builders usually go through years of trial and error learning to craft a consistently good instrument. One dulcimer might have tremendous resonance and comfortable action, while another might buzz or twang if the frets are not placed correctly, the bridge or nut is poorly aligned, or the action is too high.
Many of the better builders are also players. They understand the sound, resonance, playability, and quality musicians are looking for, and they are often connected with other players through dulcimer festivals and clubs, keeping up with current playing styles and players’ needs.
2. Hands-On Tryout
The best way to choose an instrument is with a hands-on tryout, unless you know and trust a builder’s quality enough to buy an instrument unseen and unplayed. Players sometimes wait months, or even a year, for a custom handcrafted instrument from a respected builder. The wait can be worthwhile.
Buying an inexpensive instrument online can be risky. Some mass-produced plywood instruments may have problems with construction, fret placement, action, tuning stability, tone, and overall playability.
3. How to Check a Mountain Dulcimer for Quality
Aesthetics are important, but remember that this is first and foremost a musical instrument. Sound and playability should be the most important considerations.
a. Fit the Instrument to You
Check the scale length, also called VSL, or vibrating string length. This is the distance between the nut and bridge. A longer VSL means greater distances between the frets, while a shorter VSL places the frets closer together.
Players with smaller hands may find shorter scales more comfortable, particularly when playing chords. Players using primarily noter-drone technique may be less concerned with fret spacing.
Also consider the instrument’s overall length and fretboard width. It should sit comfortably across your lap while allowing easy access to both the strumming area and the fretboard. Make sure the fretboard is neither too narrow for your fingers nor too wide for comfortable chord shapes.
Body depth can also affect an instrument’s tonal character. Deeper bodies often emphasize lower frequencies, while shallower bodies may favor higher frequencies. These are general tendencies, however. Construction, dimensions, bracing, woods, and finish all interact to determine the final sound.
b. Check the Tuning Machines
Make sure the tuning pegs or geared tuners operate smoothly and hold their position. Worn or inexpensive tuners can slip, making the instrument difficult to keep in tune. Tuners can usually be replaced if necessary.
c. Check the Action
Action is the height of the strings above the fretboard. If the action is too high, the instrument will be difficult to play and fretting notes may pull them sharp. If it is too low, strings may buzz against the frets.
Look along the fretboard from the side and play the instrument. The strings should be comfortably low without buzzing when fretted normally.
d. Play Every String at Every Fret
Listen for buzzing, dead notes, “thunks,” rattles, or other unusual sounds. Uneven frets or improperly positioned frets can cause both playability and intonation problems. An electronic tuner can help check pitch accuracy.
e. Check the Fret Pattern
For most modern playing styles, look for an instrument with a 6½ fret. It greatly expands the instrument’s versatility for chord-melody playing and playing in different keys.
A traditional instrument without a 6½ fret can still be perfectly suitable for players interested primarily in traditional noter-drone styles.
f. Check String-Spacing Options
Look at the nut and bridge. Extra string slots that allow either doubled melody strings or four equally spaced strings give you more options as your playing develops.
4. Wood Choices and Sound
Wood is one factor in both the price and sound of a dulcimer, but it is not the only factor, and often not the most important one. Design and workmanship play major roles.
Common dulcimer woods include walnut, cherry, maple, spruce, cedar, koa, sassafras, rosewood, and reclaimed woods. Some builders use one wood throughout the instrument, while others combine woods for the top, back, sides, and fretboard.
Good instrument wood must be properly seasoned and stable. Reclaimed wood can be an excellent choice because it may already be thoroughly dried and can sometimes provide visually and historically distinctive material.
Rather than choosing an instrument because you have been told that a particular species of wood has a particular “sound,” listen to the finished instrument. The complete design and construction matter more than the name of the wood.
5. Pegheads
Mountain dulcimer pegheads may be flat, similar to a guitar headstock, or traditionally shaped or scrolled.
The choice is largely aesthetic, although accessibility to the tuning machines can make string changing easier on some designs than others. Whatever the design, make sure you can comfortably reach and operate all of the tuners.
6. Nut and Bridge
Some mountain dulcimers have a floating bridge that is held in place primarily by string tension rather than being permanently attached. If yours does, be careful when changing strings. Removing all of the strings simultaneously can allow the bridge to move and affect intonation.
Check the nut and bridge for cleanly cut slots, appropriate string height, and the string-spacing options you may want in the future.
7. Frets
Good fretwork is essential.
Feel along both edges of the fretboard. Fret ends should be smooth and properly finished, with no sharp edges that catch your fingers.
Look for frets that are seated consistently and evenly. Then play every fret on every string. Listen for buzzes, dead notes, pitch inconsistencies, or places where notes require noticeably more pressure.
Your ears are useful, and an electronic tuner can provide an additional check of intonation.
8. Accessories and the Real Purchase Price
When comparing mountain dulcimer prices, determine what comes with the instrument and what you will need to purchase separately.
A practical mountain dulcimer setup may include:
Instrument
Picks
Electronic tuner, preferably a clip-on tuner
Capo
Padded case or gig bag
Spare strings
Tuning chart
Music stand
Strap and strap buttons, if you prefer to secure the instrument while playing
Non-slip shelf liner to place between the dulcimer and your lap if you prefer playing without a strap
A strap or a piece of non-slip shelf liner can make a considerable difference in playing comfort. A mountain dulcimer that slides around on your lap forces you to use your hands and arms to stabilize the instrument when they should be free to play.
If you want to use a strap and the instrument does not already have strap buttons, ask the builder or an experienced repair person about installing them rather than drilling into the instrument yourself.
A padded case is especially important if you plan to take the dulcimer to lessons, club meetings, festivals, workshops, or performances. Spare strings are also worth keeping in the case so a broken string does not end a playing session.
When comparing the prices of two instruments, consider the cost of these accessories as part of the actual purchase price.
BUYING A HAMMERED DULCIMER
1. Not All Hammered Dulcimers Are Created Equally
As with mountain dulcimers, the quality of a hammered dulcimer depends heavily on the skill and experience of its builder. A hammered dulcimer is under considerable string tension and must be engineered to remain structurally stable while producing a clear, balanced, resonant tone.
Good workmanship affects tuning stability, sustain, volume, clarity, balance from bass to treble, and how cleanly individual notes speak. A well-built instrument should sound musical throughout its range rather than having a few beautiful notes surrounded by weak, harsh, or muddy ones.
Whenever possible, buy from an established builder with a reputation among hammered dulcimer players.
2. Hands-On Tryout
The best way to choose a hammered dulcimer is to play it yourself or have an experienced hammered dulcimer player play it for you.
Listen from both the player’s position and several feet away. Hammered dulcimers can sound quite different to the person sitting directly over the soundboard than they do to an audience.
If you cannot try the actual instrument before purchasing it, buy from a builder or dealer with a strong reputation and a clearly stated return or trial policy.
A used hammered dulcimer can be an excellent purchase, but its structural condition, tuning stability, bridges, strings, and soundboard should be carefully examined.
3. How to Check a Hammered Dulcimer for Quality
Appearance matters, but sound, tuning stability, structural integrity, and playability matter more.
a. Choose the Right Size and Range
Hammered dulcimers come in different sizes and note ranges. Common descriptions such as 12/11, 15/14, and 16/15 refer to the number of string courses associated with the instrument’s bridges.
A larger instrument generally provides more notes and a greater playing range, but it also means more weight, more strings to tune, a larger case, a larger stand, and more instrument to transport.
A beginner does not necessarily need the largest instrument available. Choose enough range for the music you expect to play without buying an instrument that becomes unnecessarily difficult to carry, set up, and maintain.
b. Understand the Tuning Layout
Unlike the linear fretboard of a mountain dulcimer, a hammered dulcimer presents notes in a geometric pattern across its bridges.
Ask the builder or seller to explain the instrument’s tuning layout. Make sure a tuning chart is available. If you are learning from a teacher or playing with a local hammered dulcimer group, find out what type and size of instrument they commonly use. Learning can be easier when your instrument’s layout is compatible with the teaching materials and methods around you.
c. Check Tuning Stability
A hammered dulcimer contains many strings under substantial combined tension. It should hold its tuning reasonably well once acclimated to its environment.
Tune the instrument, play it for a while, and check it again. Significant or continual tuning movement may indicate problems with tuning pins, strings, structural stability, or environmental adjustment.
Remember that all hammered dulcimers require regular tuning. The issue is not whether the instrument ever needs tuning, but whether it remains reasonably stable between tunings.
d. Inspect the Tuning Pins
Tuning pins should be firm and secure. A loose pin can gradually turn under string tension and allow a note to go flat.
Look for bent, damaged, excessively corroded, or obviously loose pins. On a used instrument, ask whether any pins have been replaced or whether the instrument has had problems holding pitch.
e. Inspect the Bridges
The bridges are critical to the hammered dulcimer’s tuning and tone. They determine speaking lengths for many of the strings and transfer string vibration to the soundboard.
Bridges should be straight, stable, and properly positioned. Check for cracks, leaning, warping, damaged bridge caps, or grooves that have become excessively deep.
Do not casually move a bridge. Even a small change in bridge position can affect the tuning relationships of many notes.
f. Play Every Note
Strike every playable note across the entire instrument.
Listen for dead notes, rattles, buzzes, unusually short sustain, harshness, weak bass notes, or notes that seem dramatically louder or quieter than their neighbors.
A good hammered dulcimer should have a reasonably balanced voice across its range. Some tonal variation is natural and desirable, but there should not be obvious problem areas.
g. Check Both Sides of the Bridges
Many hammered dulcimer strings produce usable notes on both sides of a bridge. Make sure those relationships are correct and that both sides speak clearly.
Use an electronic tuner to verify pitches if you have questions about the instrument’s tuning or bridge placement.
4. Wood Choices and Sound
Hammered dulcimers may be built from combinations of hardwoods, softwoods, laminates, and engineered materials selected for specific structural and acoustical purposes.
Do not assume that solid wood automatically means a better instrument or that one particular species guarantees a particular tone. A hammered dulcimer must withstand tremendous string tension, so stability and intelligent construction are extremely important.
Different builders deliberately choose different materials and construction methods. Judge the completed instrument by its sound, balance, projection, stability, and workmanship rather than by wood species alone.
5. Size, Weight, and Portability
This is especially important with a hammered dulcimer.
Consider the entire system you will have to transport, not just the instrument. You may also need a padded case, stand, hammers, tuning wrench, electronic tuner, music stand, and other accessories.
Pick up the instrument in its case before buying it if possible. Consider whether you can comfortably carry it from a parking lot into a festival, rehearsal, lesson, or performance space.
A larger range is useful only if you are willing and able to transport the instrument.
6. Stands and Playing Height
A hammered dulcimer requires a stable stand. The instrument should sit at a height and angle that allow relaxed shoulders, comfortable arm movement, and easy access to the entire playing surface.
Check whether a stand is included with the instrument or must be purchased separately.
If you intend to play while seated, standing, or both, make sure the stand can accommodate those positions securely. Stability is essential because repeatedly striking an instrument on a shaky stand makes playing more difficult.
7. Hammers
Hammers are part of the instrument-playing system and can significantly affect both tone and feel.
They vary in length, weight, balance, stiffness, shape, and striking surface. Some are bare wood, while others have leather, felt, or other coverings.
Try several types if possible. A hammer that feels natural in one player’s hands may feel awkward in another’s.
If buying your first instrument, ask whether an appropriate pair of hammers is included.
8. Strings and Condition
Inspect the strings for rust, corrosion, kinks, broken windings, or obvious deterioration.
A few old strings are not necessarily a reason to reject an otherwise good used instrument, but replacing a large number of strings can involve considerable time and expense.
Ask the builder or seller for a string chart showing the correct gauges and types for each course. Do not substitute heavier strings without knowing that the instrument was designed for the additional tension.
9. Structural Condition
This is particularly important when buying used.
Look carefully at the soundboard, back, frame, corners, bridges, and pin blocks. Check for cracks, separation at joints, warping, bulging, or other evidence that the structure is moving under string tension.
A hammered dulcimer naturally operates under high tension, so structural problems should be evaluated by an experienced builder or repair person before purchase.
Also ask how the instrument has been stored. Long exposure to excessive heat, cold, dryness, or humidity can affect both wood and structural stability.
10. Accessories and the Real Purchase Price
When comparing prices, determine exactly what is included.
A complete hammered dulcimer setup may require:
Instrument
Hammers
Tuning wrench
Electronic tuner
Stand
Padded case
Spare strings
Tuning chart
Dust cover
Music stand
An inexpensive instrument that requires you to purchase everything separately may ultimately cost more than a package from an established builder.
11. New Versus Used
A good used hammered dulcimer from a respected builder can be an excellent first instrument and may offer considerably more quality for the money than a cheaply made new instrument.
Ask for the builder’s name, model, approximate age, tuning layout, range, stringing information, repair history, and reason for selling.
If you are uncertain, photographs can help, but having an experienced hammered dulcimer player or builder inspect the instrument is much better.
12. The Final Test: Does It Make You Want to Play?
After checking construction, tuning, range, portability, and price, listen to the instrument.
Do you like its voice? Does it respond well to a light hammer stroke? Can you distinguish individual notes clearly? Is the bass satisfying? Are the upper notes musical rather than painfully bright? Does the instrument feel comfortable and inviting?
Specifications can help narrow your choices, but ultimately you are buying a musical instrument. A good dulcimer should make you want to sit down and keep playing.